
The surf is spread out along a series of west-facing beaches south of Tofino including Mackenzie, Chestermans, and Cox Bay. Further south in the adjacent National Park is Long Beach, Wickaninnish Beach, and Florencia Bay closer to the town of Ucuelet. The surrounding scenery is spectacular with open ocean, rainforest and coastal mountains. Here's a link to an excellent map of the area:
Pacific Rim
Shown above is a beautiful peeling right taken in Cox Bay. If you get waves like this consider yourself lucky because surf conditions on the west coast are quite variable. While generally the most consistent surf is found during the fall to spring season, this is also the time of year when big storms come through the west coast. During the summer months, there's certainly a better chance of sunshine and cleaner conditions, but you can also get skunked and have no waves at all.

Understanding the forecast conditions is important to planning a surf trip and knowing what to expect once you get there. The first time I went to Tofino in 2006 I was a novice. We stayed at a place right in Cox Bay and that's the only spot we surfed. While it was convenient to stay and surf in the same place, the conditions at Cox were too big for most of us. The novices in the group got worked and there were several swims. No biggy, but not really an ideal introduction to surf kayaking. Had we known there were other beaches nearby with more moderate conditions, I don't think we would have surfed there.
To find out what the forecast will be or what current conditions are like, check websites like
Magicseaweed, the
Washington Marine Forecast, or buoy data at
La Perouse Bank. The most important variable to pay attention to is the size of the swell, because it has the largest influence on how big or small the waves will be. Keep in mind that the swell size does not translate directly to wave height. Many other variables influence wave height such as swell direction, wave period, wind speed, wind direction, and tides.

Generally, when the swell is big (around 15 foot), unless you're an expert it's better to head to spots like Mackenzie Beach where it's sheltered from the brunt of the swell. When the swell is small (less than 5 foot), Mackenzie will be totally flat, but Cox Bay, Long Beach, Wickaninnish, and Florencia Bay will still have good waves as they are more exposed. From fall through to spring, it's usually somewhere in between and then Chestermans is where it's at.

Once you have a look at the forecast and current conditions and have an idea of which spots might be decent, go out and have a look to see what's happening. If it looks massive and scary to you it probably is. If it looks boring and small, well... yep. Conveniently, it's quite easy to drive around and check out the three main beaches closest to Tofino (shown below), and they will have enough variety for any level of paddler. While driving south into the National Park isn't necessary, it can be fun if you're into exploring or it's busy and you'd rather avoid the crowds.
During early mornings and weekdays, there's usually very few people out. But it can be pretty busy in the water during weekends and holidays. However, because the breaks are formed on beaches and not from a point or reef with a more limited take-off spot, there are lots of wave peaks to be had and usually enough to go around.
For the uninitiated, it's a good idea to learn basic surf etiquette before paddling out (see above). This includes not dropping in when someone else is on the wave, allowing the person closest to the breaking peak of the wave to have priority, and not snaking. Snaking is paddling around someone who's waiting for a wave and taking off on a wave in front of them. This is particularly important for kayakers because in terms of getting into position to catch a wave, kayakers are much faster than surfers. If you do get in the way of someone elses wave, best thing to do is quickly apologize.

After that first humbling trip to Tofino in 2006, I returned several more times. During fall or winter when we were jonesing for a whitewater fix, a few of us would head down there from PG, stay in a cheap hostel or hotel, and kayak every day. It was a fantastic place to learn the basics of playboating like flat spins and wavewheels. It was also great for getting comfortable in bigger whitewater features like holes and waves. Lots of combat roll practice too! All the modern playboating moves are possible on a decent sized ocean wave.

I've been in the surf in all kinds of conditions throughout the last few years, but the one kayak trip that sticks out in my memory was during the Remembrance Day weekend in 2007. When we arrived we had awesome conditions and sunshine that lasted the first two days. During the second night a massive storm slammed into the west coast with 100+ km/h winds and 25 feet swell. When we got to the beach the following morning the seas were a maelstrom of whitewater. Below is a picture of North Chestermans totally closed out. When the wind gusted it almost knocked you over. Going out in the water was not an option for most of the surf spots.

We had driven a long time to get there though, so we headed to Mackenzie Beach where it was still wild and big but not as crazy. Below is a shot of me on a wave well inside of where the big sets were breaking. Look closely and you can see the looming grey walls of water behind me.
Extreme storm conditions like the Remembrance Day trip can happen on the west coast, especially during late fall or winter. Generally though, they are uncommon and don't last long. Most people stay out of the water when they do happen, not just because it's unsafe but the wave quality is usually very poor during a storm.
Most of time, kayak surfing in Tofino is suited to any level of boater. This is because of the variety of beaches that provide options for the size of surf you want. Beginners can also learn to play "inside" where the smaller waves are. And because the beaches all have sandy bottoms, you shouldn't hit anything unexpectedly. This also makes walking out of the water easy if you need to self-rescue.

For intermediate and advanced boaters, the biggest waves and the best potential for fast rides and dynamic moves are "outside", where the green waves first start breaking. Because a kayaker can't duck under the crashing waves, getting outside can be challenging. It's always a good idea to take a good look at where the peaks are from the beach before paddling out, so you can pick the easiest line to get outside. Once you start paddling, the speed and manoeuvrability of a kayak will be a huge advantage to navigating your way out. When you've made your way there, you can rest because the waves are no longer breaking where you are. Once you're ready, it's simply a matter of lining-up a green wave, turning towards the beach, giving a few good paddle strokes, and dropping in. Bam! Crazy fun action! If you mess up and get worked, no big deal. The water is easily deep enough here that you won't impact the bottom. If get caught inside where the waves are crashing no big deal. It's a great place to test your combat roll! Then just work your way out again or just catch the next wave in.

As long as you're properly outfitted, the cold weather and water is easily tolerable. From October to April the ocean on the south coast of BC is around 8-10 degrees. In winter, the air temperature rarely ever goes below zero and is usually around 6-12 degrees. Don't forget some Belly Jelly or Vaseline for your neck. Otherwise the sandy salt water will give you a pretty serious rash on your throat where your gasket is.

There is an abundance of wildlife along Canada's coastline, and Tofino is no exception. It's common to observe seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins, eagles and shorebirds while out in the surf. Thankfully there are no sharks, however it's not unusual to get checked out by a curious sea lion. They are big and when swimming near you can be intimidating, but there have never been any attacks on surfers or swimmers.

One of my favourite parts of a surf trip is how simple things become once you are there. No shuttle required!! Just get to the beach, paddle out, and catch waves. The town of Tofino is a cool little place to spend time when you're not in the water too, with cafes, good restaurants, surf shops, art galleries, and live music (check
Tofino Times). You could also take the trip ove
r to Clayoquot Sound's Hot Springs Cove, go whale watching, or fishing with a tour. Going for a walk along the beach is pretty great too. Definitely no shortage of stuff to do anyway.
For accommodations, Tofino has a lot of beautiful places close to the beach, but they tend to be quite expensive and affordable accommodations can be hard to find. Check out
Whalers on the Point, the bunk room at the Ecolodge in the
Tofino Botanical Gardens, the
Backbacker, the
Dolphin Motel, and the
Schooner Motel. If you're thinking of camping, think again. You will be cold, wet, and miserable unless it's the middle of summer.
The whitewater kayak season on the Island is during fall-spring when the rains come, so if you have the time you should check out some nearby rivers. Moderate runs like the Cowichan (pictured below) and Nanaimo (both class II-III), or more challenging rivers like the Gordon (III-V) and Koksilah Rivers (III-IV) are super fun and not far off the beaten path to Tofino. Be sure to look up Don and Rose at the
Warm Rapids Inn for hook-ups as they live and work right on the Cowichan River. Don't forget there's also the Capilano River (class II-III) and Lynn Creek (III-IV) in North Vancouver if the level is good. It's a long drive down from Prince George so make it worthwhile and take some extra time to check out other nearby places to paddle.

Since my last trip there with a kayak in 2008, I've switched to the dark side and only board surf now during surf trips. While this has me hooked, I still look fondly back on those earlier kayak trips to the south coast. It was a whole lot of fun with great people and certainly contributed to my progression as a whitewater kayaker.

Before signing off, I should add one more thing. There are many other decent places to surf on the west coast of British Columbia aside from Tofino. On the southern end of Vancouver Island these include Jordan River, Sombrio, and Port Renfrew. On the north end of the Island there's Raft Cove and San Josef Bay. Up on the north coast of BC there's Haida Gwaii - a stand-out if only because of its proximity to Prince George. It may not have the amenities of Tofino, but Haida Gwaii definitely has the waves and wild west coast scenery. As a surf destination it barely receives any attention at all, but as I understand it some of the locals like it that way. Needless to say, wherever you end up surfing, always respect the locals.
That's all from me, so here's to light offshore breeze, long period swell, easy paddle-outs, and empty breaks.... cheers!!